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North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Eisenhower from Tower Lake

Mount Eisenhower from Tower Lake. Although Mount Eisenhower presents a high rock-climbing challenge, the only route on its northern side prior to our visit was that of the first ascent by Professor A. P. Coleman in 1884. On August 3, Jamie Fitzgerald, Gordie Freedman, Bill and Lowell Putnam, Rob Wallace, Arnold Wexler and I climbed five miles on the excellent trail beginning at the warden’s station of Route 1A to Tower Lake, where we camped at 6500 feet. Our first climb was on Mount Eisenhower proper, on the buttress just northwest of a waterfall about ¼ mile from the gully splitting the southeast tower from the rest of the peak. Both Putnams, Wallace, Wexler and I started in a gully, then exited onto the buttress. In three pitches, the third F6, we gained the crest of the buttress. Three more pitches of easier climbing led to a broken area where no belay was necessary. A short scramble led to the final pitch on an impressive tower of exposed but not difficult rock (6½ hours from camp.) The next day, Rob Wallace and I climbed the southeast tower by the northwest buttress. We passed the lower cliff band via a large gully in line with the split between the tower and Eisenhower proper. We continued up this split for 150 feet above the scree slope, where a large chockstone barred further progress. We exited left and in one pitch (F6) gained the crest of the buttress. We continued along this for three pitches of loose rock, then angled up and right, staying left of the gully of Route 1 for four more pitches to a large flat area where we crossed the gully to the right. One more exposed pitch brought us to the summit, 7½ hours from camp.

EUGENE F. BOSS, Unaffiliated