North America, Canada, North West Territories, Lotus Flower Tower, Logan Mountains, Second Ascent

Publication Year: 1972.

Lotus Flower Tower, Logan Mountains, Second Ascent. On August 12 a British Columbia-Yukon Air Service seaplane took Joël Coqueugniot, Patrick Cordier, Mlle Marie-Françoise Gay and me to Glacier Lake. The weather was gorgeous, but we learned that two other expeditions had failed because of rain to climb the Lotus Flower Tower. (First ascent: Bill, Frost, McCarthy, August 10-13, 1968. A.A.J., 1969, 16:2, 1969, 16:2, pp. 312-7.) The next day, after a heavy and painful ten-hour carry, we reached the flat at the foot of the glacier. (The best route seems to follow the edge of the forest on a moose path and then to climb a huge scree slope that descends from Mount Sir Harrison Smith.) That night it began to rain. We waited for three days under a boulder while snow fell on the summits. On August 16 we went to prepare a rope-length on the vast dihedral described by Sandy Bill. On the 17th the weather continued unsettled. While Marie-Françoise packed supplies up from the lake, we climbed halfway up the wall to the “meadow”, a lovely climb at first artificial in the dihedral and then nearly entirely free. The next day in beautiful weather we got to the second bivouac site of Bill, Frost and McCarthy, but returning bad weather forced us to continue to the summit, which we reached at four A.M. on the 19th. We descended the south ridge to its lowest point and with numerous rappels gained the foot of the face at one P.M. by a deep, wide couloir.

BERNARD AMY, Club Alpin Français