North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Stephen Leacock

Publication Year: 1972.

Mount Stephen Leacock, St. Elias Mountains. Martyn Williams, Jim Boyde and I devoted the Easter weekend from April 9 to 15 to the ascent of Mount Stephen Leacock (60° 38' N, 138° 43' W; 10,200 feet). Named after the renowned Canadian author, humorist and economist by the Canadian Permanent Committee on Geographical Names in 1970, it seemed fitting for Canadians to make the first ascent. From Mile 1054 on the Alaska Highway we were given ski-doo support up the valley of the Slims to the terminus of the Kaskawulsh Glacier. From there we travelled 60 miles mostly on snowshoes. We approached Mount Stephen Leacock via the first tributary glacier entering the south arm of the Kaskawulsh from the east. The summit was reached by all on April 12 using the east ridge. Camps were at 4300, 6300 and 7800 feet. The weather was generally fine with good snow for travelling. Winds were strong down-glacier most of the time with gusts to 40 knots; we were confined to our tentage on two occasions for a half day.

M. E. ALFORD