North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Lucania and Steele

Publication Year: 1972.

Lucania and Steele. We ascended the five-mile-long southeast ridge to Mount Steele (16,644 feet) and then traversed the south face of Steele from 15,000 to 16,000 feet, a rising traverse which took us to the southwest ridge of Steele, from which we could easily strike for Lucania. The south-face traverse was the only new part of the route; it involved mixed steep snow climbing and 60° ice climbing and was about a mile long. From the southwest ridge of Steele we descended to 13,000 feet in the col between the two peaks and then traversed around to the north side of Lucania. From our last camp (13,000 feet) we did a 4000-foot summit day up the north face to the top (17,147 feet). We then returned by the same route. We were picked up on the upper Donjek Glacier by Phil Upton, the Arctic Institute pilot, who had brought us in. We were on the mountains for 15 days with only one storm day. The members of the party were Jürg Hofer, Swiss; Taina Dutescu, Rumanian; Liz Witherill, El Gemmil and I, Americans.

JOSEPH C. LABELLE, JR.