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North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Logan Attempt

Mount Logan Attempt. John Marshall, Dr. Gene Mason, Jack Walston, Steve Trafton, Dr. Wayne Smith, Dr. Gordon Doty, Lute Jerstad and Jay Ullin and I unsuccessfully attempted to climb Mount Logan by the standard route. We were delayed from June 23 until the 30th at Kluane Lake, waiting for flying weather, before we could be airlifted to the King Trench. We moved camps upward the next few days in doubtful weather. On August 5 Dr. Doty came down with severe high-altitude mountain sickness at camp at 16,000 feet and had to be evacuated in stormy weather to Camp II at 14,000 feet, where he developed pulmonary edema. On August 7 he descended to Base Camp for evacuation by plane. Meanwhile the rest of the party was being buffetea by a frightful storm and lost its three tents either buried beneath six feet of new snow or ripped by 120-mph winds. We descended on August 9 and were airlifted back to Kluane.