American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Logan

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1972

Mount Logan. After a seven-day wait at Glennallen, Alaska, Dick Beach and Rich Gnagy were flown onto the glacier to start our climb of Mount Logan by the standard King Trench route; Bill Feldman, Alex McDermott and I waited another nine days at May Creek before being flown in to join them! We established Camp I at King Col (13,500 feet) on July 6. Just above the col 400 feet of fixed rope and three snow pickets were very useful. Camp II was set up at 15,200 feet on July 8 and Camp III at 17,200 feet on July 12. The next day we crossed the 18,000-foot pass to reach the Arctic Institute’s camp at 17,500 feet, where we waited out several days of storm. During a brief break on July 16 we set up camp three miles farther, below the west peak, and from here, during a longer break on July 17, Dick Beach and I, with John Hall and Toby Wheeler of the Logan-St. Elias expedition, completed the 13-hour round trip to the summit of Logan’s highest peak (19,850 feet). We returned to the Institute the next day, to Base Camp on July 19 and were picked up by their pilot, Mike Stone, on June 22.


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