Mount Logan, Schoening Ridge. In 1971, the Alpine Club of Canada planned an expedition to Mount Logan via a new ridge on the south face. In due course, it was decided to make an attempt, via the southwest spur, immediately east of Schoening’s Ridge route to King Peak. In the event that the southwest spur presented excessive difficulties, an alternate route was considered via the great ice ramp at the head of the cwm bounded by the spur and Schoening’s Ridge. Schoening’s 1952 route was to be held in reserve in case all else failed. (See A.A.J., 1953, 8:3, pp 416-423.) On May 16 Bob Cuthbert, Lloyd Gallagher, Dave Jones, Dave Payne, Pete Robinson and I landed on the Seward Glacier at 6300 feet, 9 miles southwest of Logan’s main summit and 6½ miles from the proposed routes. Within a few days, close examination of the new routes had been carried out. Access difficulties, through an icefall of gigantic crevasses, seemed insuperable for a party of six men. The upper ridge of the southwest spur appeared to have very rotten ice conditions, and the ice ramp was exposed to extensive avalanche action from the south face. We decided to fall back on the reserve route. Five camps were required from the landing base to reach the summit of Schoening Ridge. Camp VI was located at the head of the Logan Trench, on June 2. On June 4, disaster nearly overtook the party when an avalanche went through Camp VII, during the morning pack-up. All goods were recovered and no injuries occurred. Following this incident, two days were wasted trying to establish the route to the summit plateau to the west and north of Queen Peak. The standard route, to the south, was soon discovered and, by June 7, a high camp was pitched at approximately 18,500 feet, north of the west peak. The summit was reached the next day, by all members of the party. The route to the Logan Trench was quickly retraced where, on June 9, the Arctic Institute of North America party was encountered. Air evacuation was carried out on June 13 from 10,800 feet.

PHILIP DOWLING, Alpine Club of Canada