Mount Helen, North Face, Tower 1 Ice Gully, Wind River Range. On August 26 Bill Lindberg and I ascended the gully on the north face which reaches the notch between Towers 1 and 2 on the 1946 Kraus route. The ice here is not as steep as it appears from Bonney Pass. The climb consists of ten pitches on excellent ice with belays from the rock on a 165-foot rope. The angle of the ice varied from 45° to 55°; the route was well protected with ice screws and warthogs and was subject to only moderate rockfall danger. From the notch a descent of 150 feet to the south led us to the Kraus route which we followed to the summit. NCCS III, F5.
RAYMOND G. JACQUOT, Unaffiliated