American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming, The Bottle, East Face, Wind River Range

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1972

The Bottle, East Face, Wind River Range. Though cross-country in the northern Wind Rivers is tamer than in the Cascades, it can be reasonably tough. Game trails beyond the Green River Lakes led us to a delightful, almost unknown valley west of Squaretop. After pondering the almost endless wall-climbing potential here, Dave Beckstead and William Nicolai set off for unclimbed spires to the west. At the same time, on July 13, Tom Nephew and I turned to the Bottle. We elected to climb the east face, an elegant problem only slightly less slabby than the north face, which looked like a doubtful one-day project. Our route ascended moderately steep snow couloirs and then about 1000 feet of rock. A number of pitches involved route-finding through endless jam- cracks, slabs and short headwalls. Near the summit came a unique blocky, narrow spine, then a scramble to the highest, apparently previously unvisited point. NCCS III, F7 or F8.

FRED BECKEY

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.