The Fickle Finger of Forlorn. Chuck Schaap and I spent a long day climbing to the summit of this finger-like pinnacle located on the north side of Clear Creek Canyon and just 300 feet south of Forlorn Pinnacle. Starting from a camp on Clear Lake in the early morning of August 23, we climbed directly up the steep south face of the pinnacle and in about 10 leads of sustained difficulty we reached a large east-sloping ledge about 300 feet below the summit. From this ledge we traversed around the pinnacle and into the saddle between Forlorn Pinnacle and the Fickle Finger. We reached the summit from this point after one long lead of mixed free and aid climbing. The rock we encountered on the climb was excellent and the summit, although uncomfortably small, afforded an outstanding view. The descent was made by a series of eight rappels and considerable down climbing on the east face of the pinnacle. NCCS III or IV, F8, A2.
ROBERT STEVENSON, Unaffiliated