American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Utah, Moonlight Buttress, Zion National Park

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1972

Moonlight Buttress, Zion National Park. This climb is ?mile north of Angel’s Landing on the west side of the canyon. Harry Frishman, Burt Redmayne and I made an abortive attempt on this prominent buttress last spring. When Mike Weiss and I arrived in Zion last October, the buttress again caught my eye. We began climbing late in the full morning sun, but we felt this was all right because the 1100 feet of the buttress would obviously take us less than two full days. It is best when you relax and enjoy the cool reds of the rock and the clear blues of the air in Zion in the fall. The first few pitches were old stuff to me, and Mike made acquaintance with Zion rock. He was pleased with it and that was the tone of the climb. Despite the rurp and the piton on the third pitch, the favorable tone was not lost. Above the third pitch, Mike climbed past our previous high point and into the bottom of the crack that constitutes the upper 750 feet of the climb. It got dark before the bivouac ledge but Mike banged away at pins he could not see as I hung in my belay seat and watched the light of a full moon creep down the ledge as Mike clanged up toward it. NCCS V, F7, A3. 22 bolts

JEFF LOWE

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