North America, United States, California—Yosemite, Too Many Darts

Publication Year: 1972.

Too Many Darts. Tim Auger and I arose to do the East Side of Bridalveil. A quick game of darts and we set off. We never found the correct route, but just started climbing up obvious cracks to the right of the East Side route. The first pitch starts in a hollow by the base of the Bridalveil pools. Climb a small pedestal, then the right-hand of two cracks. A long (150-foot, plus) lead takes one to a ledge on the right. Traverse right on the ledge and climb up the right side of a block. Step right (F7) and climb up into the base of a chimney (this may be wet). The third pitch goes up the chimney 40 feet and then out right and up for 100 feet (F7). Pitch four stays in the main crack and avoids the open-book curving right. Climb some face moves on the left of the crack, then move back to the cracks and climb to the base of an ominous overhanging crack (F7). Belay 20 feet above it. The next pitch continues up for 130 feet. Belay in a small alcove atop a bush. Continue up for 140 feet of continuous F7 with a hard jam move. Belay in a slot with flakes and horns on the right. The final pitch climbs a 30-foot jam crack (F8, possibly a pin or two of aid). Move right on a sloping ledge and climb up 30 feet more in a corner. A few aid pins lead around the roof to the right, and 30 feet of climbing leads to the rim. NCCS III, F8, A1.

BOB SCHNEIDER, Unaffiliated