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North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Wrinkled Lady, South Face

Wrinkled Lady, South Face. Looking north from Whitney Portal, one can see a prominent pyramid crossing the ridge, deeply corrugated with vertical cracks and books. Joe Brown and I made a direct climb from the roadhead on May 24 and 25, 1969. Because the climb had nearly 2000 feet of slabs and crack climbing, we pushed for the fastest free-climbing route, using the rope only at a few crux spots on the first afternoon. A last stand of scrub trees provided good wood for a bivouac fire. The final 500 feet of the summit pyramid are very steep. We chose a central open-book that led to the summit with mixed free and aid climbing. Rough unglaciated rock surface and very deep cracks conspired to scrape hands and knees and to tear clothes in serious struggles with cracks. About noon we completed this long and interesting new route. NCCS III, F7, A2.