American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Tenpeak Mountain, Northwest Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1972

Tenpeak Mountain, Northwest Face. A Base Camp north of Tenpeak Mountain, a granitic subrange southeast of Glacier Peak and the Honeycomb Glacier, is over 20 miles from the road when using the Suiattle River approach. Except for a few hours of brush fighting at the end, it is a delightful hike. On September 22 Bill Nicolai, Peter K. Williamson, and I cramponed a snow arm edging the glacier to get onto Tenpeak’s northwest face. This unclimbed façade is some 2000 feet high, but due to the solidity of the rock and its jointing, we elected to do much of it without the nuisance of the rope (though it was fully class 4). The final few pitches took a bit of piton protection. A biting wind on the summit foreran the end of summer: it came the next day.


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