North America, United States, Alaska, P 12,360 and Others, Mount Hayes Group

Publication Year: 1972.

P 12,360 and Others, Mount Hayes Group. The Kansai University expedition was composed of Yoshimi Miyamoto, Hajime Naemura, Hiroshi Anzawa, Shigefumi Matsumoto and me as leader. Three of us left Paxson for Mount Hayes on June 16 by plane, but the plane was turned upside down by a big wind the moment we landed on the upper Susitna Glacier. Fortunately we were all unharmed. Mr. Sheldon’s plane was helped by an Air Force helicopter. For a week our climbers were isolated on the glacier, supplied by an airdrop. The other two of us landed between the Susitna and Black Rapids glaciers on June 22 and we met on the Susitna the next day. We set up Base Camp on the upper Susitna at 8500 feet on June 24. We climbed to a pass on the Hayes-Aurora ridge and set up Camp I there on the 26th. After a three-day storm we fixed rope and traversed the ridge to the southeast. We all set up an advanced camp, climbing P 10,232 on the way. On July 6 Miyamoto and Naemura ascended P 12,261, which required 120 feet of fixed rope near the top, and P 12,360. Anzawa and Matsumoto later climbed P 10,300 on the connecting ridge which descends from Hayes to the southeast. (All these peaks had been previously climbed. See especially A.A.J., 1965, 14:2, pp. 404-5.) After moving Base Camp to 7000 feet under the south ridge of Mount Hayes, we climbed to 9000 feet but a week’s storm put an end to climbing activities.

TSUTOMU NAKANO, Kansai University Alpine Club