American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Huntington Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1972

Mount Huntington Attempt. In June the University of Washington’s Tri-Peak Expedition, Neils Anderson, Chris Chandler, Alan Givler, Richard LeBlond, Malcolm Moore and I, made an attempt on the northeast ridge of Mount Huntington. Due to an unfortunate alteration in the proposed landing site, we were landed on the West Fork of the Ruth Glacier, northeast of Huntington, confronted by a 2000-foot icefall, which rose to a col between Huntington and our second objective, The Rooster Comb. Between avalanches and snow storms we reached the col, having placed about ten fixed lines. Previous to our final ferry up to the col, Base Camp was hit by the tail-end of an avalanche, which scattered equipment over an eighth of a mile. Next, Moore and Givler missed near disaster when another of considerable proportions broke off the north face of Huntington. To this point technical difficulties had not been severe, but the recent snowfall had increased objective dangers so high that we decided that the opportunity for accidents was too great.


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