North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Hunter, North Face Attempt

Publication Year: 1972.

Mount Hunter, North Face Attempt. An attempt was made on the north face of Mount Hunter by Charles Fuselier, Laura Johnson, Joan Nester, Guy Waterman and me in May. An unusually heavy snow fall occurred during the winter of 1970-71 which may have accounted for the high degree of avalanche activity. It snowed on 13 of the 14 days that we were in the area. A route was planned in 1969 while studying the north face. Because of the avalanche danger, the beginning of this route had to be changed. This start required fixed rope from the very beginning. A large avalanche, triggered by a hanging glacier, fell while all of us were at the top of the second pitch of the climb. Although the main section of the avalanche was some distance from this section of the route, it was so big that part spilled over, crossed a gully and swept across the route below us. When we descended, only six of the ten snow-shoes could be found. Ten feet of solidified snow and ice blocks were on some sections of the approach trail. This avalanche prematurely terminated the attempt.

EDWARD O. NESTER