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North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Hunter, Northeast Ridge

Mount Hunter, Northeast Ridge. On May 15 we were flown to the Kahiltna Glacier. Camp I was at 8200 feet on the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Just above was the key to our route, a 1300-foot ice gully, which led to the top of the northeast ridge. We fixed ropes from May 21 to 24 on the 50° to 60° ice of the gully and carried loads up, using Jümars on this most difficult part of the climb. Camp II was on the ridge near the point marked 9950 feet on the Washburn map. There was a 400-foot snow face on the ridge and then 1000 feet of knife-edged ridge, where we fixed ropes. We bivouacked for several nights at 12,500 feet. Above the bivouac was more knife-edged ridge. We tunneled through a cornice and eventually got to the summit plateau. On June 4 K. Takahashi, leader, N. Sasada, S. Kosaka, K. A. Suzuki and I climbed the summit pyramid of Mount Hunter (14,570 feet) up the snow and ice ridge. We were climbing for 24 hours. On June 13 we five plus Mrs. C. Suzuki climbed Kahiltna Dome.

HIROKAZU HAMADA, Tokyo Hokuryo Alpine Club