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North America, United States, Alaska, Mount McKinley

As always we are extremely grateful to those friends who have given us such great help in putting together this section. Indeed without their assistance it could not exist. We wish to thank in particular Dr. G. O. Dyhrenfurth, Dr. Adolph Diemberger, Colonel James O. M. Roberts, Michael Cheney, Ichiro Yoshizawa, César Morales Arnao, Ken Wilson, Vojslav Arko, Mario Fantin, KamalK. Guha and many others.

Mount McKinley. There were nine successful expeditions which climbed Mount McKinley in 1971. Ten expeditions attempted the climb unsuccessfully. There were two fatalities, one at 9300 feet on the Muldrow Glacier and one at 16,000 feet on the West Buttress. Of the 163 climbers, 48 made the summit and 115 did not. The French climb of the Cassin route variation is covered by an article. Gary Ullin, Michael Sloan, Jack Cole, James Foster and Ronald Mucke were the only party to climb the North Peak as well as the South (main) Summit, ascending Pioneer Ridge and descending Karstens Ridge. They reached the North Peak on June 18 and the South Peak on June 22. One expedition climbed Karstens Ridge; Craig Patterson, Robert Gallivan and John Sutton got to the top on July 21 and John Lakey and Thomas Peterson on July 23. All others climbed the West Buttress route: on May 29 Otto Huber, Erwin Mitterbichler, Germans; on June 22 Katsuo Take, Takae Minowa and on June 23 Kazuo Miyamoto, Masaki Suzuki, Shoichi Mitamura, Nobuo Masaki, Shigeo Toki, Genichi Kawabata, Japanese; On July 4 W. E. (Smoke) Blanchard, Randy Renner, Robert Denkewalter, Paul Denkewalter, Richard Dietz, Crawford Hill, John Lamb, Jr., Charles Thout, Timothy Treacy; on July 10 Salvador Rivas Martínez, Carlos Soria Fontan, Carlos Muñoz-Repiso Izaguirre, Luis Bernardo Durand, Spaniards; on July 14 Uwe Siegert, Christian Bruckner and on July 18 Ray Genet, Alan Abele, Marlene Titus; and on August 13 Hartmut Ahlbrecht, Gerhard Ahlbrecht, Tilman Spohr, Germans and Betty Ivanoff, Alaskan Eskimo.

Mount McKinley Correction. Inadvertently we omitted the name of Carolyn Smith, who accompanied her husband Ronald Smith and others to the summit of Mount McKinley on July 20, 1970, in A.A.J., 1971, 17:2, p. 325. We congratulate Mrs. Smith on this rugged ascent.

Note: All dates in this section refer to 1971 unless otherwise stated.