Asia, USSR, Pamirs and Tien Shan, 1969

Publication Year: 1971.

Pamirs and Tian Shan, 1969. Excellent summaries of climbing in the Soviet Union are found in the Alpine Journal, 1970 on pages 159 to 162 and in Alpinismus of February, 1970. Among other difficult new climbs described there, we mention the following. In the Pamirs a Leningrad team led by J. Kuzmin made from July 31 to August 17, 1969 a most amazing 10-mile traverse all above 20,000 feet. After completing a new route on the northwest face of Pik Garmo, they traversed over Pik Patriot, Pik Rossiya and Pik Kommunisma. Climbers from Odessa led by W. Swiridenko made the first ascent from August 2 to 13 of the south buttress of Pik Sandal and then traversed over Musdjilga. Another remarkable traverse was that of Pik 26 Bakinski Commissars, Pik Revolution and Pik Shipka. The 8000-foot south face of Pik 26 Bakinski Commissars was a particular feat. In the Tian Shan two extremely difficult new routes were made on Pik Swobodnaja (Free) Korea by Ukrainians led by Anatoli Kutuzovski and Siberians led by Valeri Bussubkin. Lithuanians made a very difficult new route on the 4000-foot face of Pik Djigit.