American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Afghanistan, Koh-i-Marakech, and Other Peaks, Central Hindu Kush

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1971

Koh-i-Marcheck and Other Peaks, Central Hindu Kush. An expedition of the Imperial College, London, approached via the Bashgal and Shkurigal valleys and climbed east of the region where the Scots were. On August 22, I. Staples and R. Wroot made the second ascent of the peak climbed by our group, P 5680 (18,635 feet). They ascended an ice gully between the summit and a pinnacle on the east face, a new route. The same pair made the third ascent of Barf (P 5797; 19,019 feet) by a new route, the east face on August 29 and the fourth ascent of Shakh-i-Kabud (20,309 feet) by a new route, the southeast buttress, on September 13. K. Wills and P. Bunting made the following climbs, all first ascents: P 4703 (15,430 feet) on August 19; P 5590 (18,340 feet) on August 20; P 5055 (16,584 feet); P 4870 (15,978 feet) on August 25; P 5207 (17,083 feet) on August 26; P 5250 (17,225 feet) on August 27; P 5550 (18,209 feet) on September 8;P 5460 (17,914 feet) on September 13;P 5107 (16,775 feet) on September 14. B. Hooker and D. Palmer made the second ascent of Koh-i-Barf on August 19 by a 1000-foot snow couloir east of the summit.

They also made the third ascent of Koh-i-Marchech on September 12 to 14 by a new route, the south ridge.

IAN G. ROWE, Alpine Club

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