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Asia, Afghanistan, Peaks in West Parun Valley and Zerago Peak, Bandaka Group

Peaks in West Parun Valley and Zerago Peak, Bandaka Group. The Mount Yari Hut Party was composed of Minoru Murata, leader, Bunji Kobayashi, Susumu Hirose, and Katsuki Kohno. They traveled from Kabul via Ishtui to the western head of the Parun valley, where on June 27 they established Base Camp at 12,150 feet. Kobayashi and Hirose climbed P 5740 (18,832 feet) on June 30, with a camp at 14,750 feet and a bivouac at 17,000 feet. They called it “Parun Spear”. (All these peaks may be identified on Wolfgang Frey’s map in Zwischen Munjan und Bashgal.) From camp at 15,100 feet Murata and Kohno on July 2 climbed P 5611 (18,409 feet). Since Kohno was mountain sick, he stopped in the col and Murata went on alone to climb P 5510 (18,078 feet). From the col they descended to the north to their high camp. On July 3 Murata alone climbed P 5375 (17,635 feet). On July 5 Kobayashi and Hirose climbed first P 5515 (18,095 feet) and then P 5420 (17,782 feet) from a 17,000-foot bivouac site. They then on July 7 descended to Ishtui, ascended the Sebalgar river, crossed the Weran Kotal and went along the Munjan river to its confluence with the Zerango valley (11,000 feet), which they reached on July 15. From camp at 15,425 feet, on July 17 Murata and Hirose climbed Zerango Peak (19,380 feet, the highest unclimbed peak in the Bandaka group.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, A.A.C. and Japanese Alpine Club