American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Afghanistan, Peak Southeast of Koh-i-Marakech

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1971

Peak Southeast of Koh-i-Marchech. While leading a trekking party for the Sierra Club this summer, I climbed with Thomas Myers of New York a peak whose summit contained no evidence of prior ascent. Some six miles southeast of Koh-i-Marchech, it is located at 35°48' N and 71°09' E on Wolfgang Frey’s map in Zwischen Munjan und Bashgal. We were fortunate in having a copy of the new Afghan topographic map for the area prepared from aerial photographs; through it and the climb we discovered some errors. The peak at the head of the cirque in which we climbed is given as 5160 meters (16,929 feet) by Frey but appears as 5406 meters (17,736 feet) on the topographic map. We climbed the peak just east of Frey’s P 5107, which he gives as a triangle only (5300+ meters or 17,389+ feet on the topographic map). From its top it was clear that P 5160 is a good 300 meters or nearly 1000 feet higher than P 5107. We climbed the west ridge and descended by a series of chutes on the south face, mostly third-class.

stephen arnon, Harvard Mountaineering Club

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.