Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Tirich Mir East Attempt

Publication Year: 1971.

Tirich Mir East Attempt. A German expedition from Trostberg led by Stefan Rausch had as its objective climbing Tirich Mir by the southeast ridge from the South Barum Glacier. They arrived in Chitral on July 23. They placed three camps on the sites used by the Norwegians; Base Camp at 14,100 feet above the first icefall, Camp I at 15,750 feet below the second icefall and Camp II at 17,000 above it. They climbed from there to a col on the southeast ridge at 18,850 feet and established Camp III just above it. Their high point, 20,350 feet, which was to have been the site of Camp IV, was reached on August 11 by Rausch and Strohschneider. Rausch felt sick and stayed at Camp III on the 13th. After coughing fits he suddenly died as the others were about to carry him down. It seems to have been exhaustion or pneumonia. (Or pulmonary edema? —Editor.) This well known climber and expedition leader was buried at Camp III.

adolf Diemberger, österreichischer Alpenklub