American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Tirich Mir Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1971

Tirich Mir Attempt. The Innsbruck Mountain Rescue expedition led by Kurt Pittracher and composed of Horst Bergmann, Dr. Peter Mangutsch, Manfred Mehrli and Dr. Raimund Margreiter hoped to climb Tirich Mir by the Carinthian route. It will be remembered that H. Thomaser and F. Samonig were last seen at about 21,650 feet while attempting this route in 1967. (A.A.J., 1968, 16:1, p. 221.) This Carinthian buttress would have led to the south ridge above the S Glacier Col and eventually to the top of the Norwegian route of 1950. (S Glacier is not “South” Glacier but just S Glacier because this tributary of the South Barum Glacier is shaped like the letter S.) In 1968 the Japanese were prevented by crevasses from reaching the buttress. The Tyroleans in 1970 left Chitral on June 27 by Jeep for Shogot in the Arkari valley and continued with porters through Arkari up the Dir Gol to Base Camp at 13,800 feet in the northern branch of the Dir Gol. Reconnaissance on July 1 showed the Carinthian buttress impractical with icefalls, séracs and ice avalanches. They looked for a route farther right (south) which would lead over S Glacier Peak to the S Glacier Col. The route led over difficult terrain to a glacial basin where Camp I was placed at 16,700 feet. Continuous bad weather hampered further operations although one tent was set up at Camp II above an icefall. On July 27, north of Base Camp and west of Tirich Mir, they all climbed Malgiri Zom I, II and III (18,304, 18,209 and 18,111 feet). The latter two, which lie west of Malgiri Zom I, were first ascents. Margreiter and Pittracher climbed P4800 (15,748 feet) and just north of it P4760 (15,617 feet) on a spur which juts north into the southern branch of the Dir Gol.

adolf Diemberger, Österreichischer Alpenklub

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