American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Nadir Shat and Keshnikhan

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1971

Nadir Shah and Keshnikhan. The second Yugoslav Hindu Kush Expedition in the Mandaras valley was led by Lojze Šteblaj, and further composed of Stane Belak, Danilo Cedilnik, Boris Krivic, Mitja Košir and Dr. Tomaz Azman. On July 31 Krivic and Belak reached the top of Kohe Nadir Shah (22,310+ feet), climbing the Polish route with camps at 16,750, 19,675 and 22,000 feet. Nasere Khosran Tsuka (20,834 feet; also called M2) was climbed from a col between it and M3 on August 1 by Šteblaj and Cedilnik and on the 5th by Belak and Košir. Camp I was the same as for Nadir Shah and Camp II was in the col at 18,700 feet. Koh-i-Keshnikhan (c. 22,000 feet) was ascended on August 12 by Krivic and Cedilnik and on the 13th by Belak and Košir. They climbed it via the col between it and M2 and then up the south ridge. Camp I was the same as for the previous climbs, Camp II (20,350 feet) was on the M2 ridge and Camp III (20,000 feet) on the M2-Keshnikhan col. This last climb was a new route from the Madaras valley. (In a publication dedicated to Albert Pradal about the French expedition to the Mandaras valley it states that he and L. Audoubert climbed the south-southwest buttress and descended the south face.)

adolf Diemberger, Österreichischer Alpenklub

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