American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Koh Larissa, Shir Koh, Kohe Hevad, Kohe Dusti, Ishmurgh Valley

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1971

Kohe Larissa, Shir Koh, Kohe Hevad, Kohe Dusti, Ishmurgh Valley. The Biomedical Hindu Kush Expedition of the German Alpine Club (DAV) and the University of Munich was led by Dr. Roman Zink and composed of Dr. Udo Irmler, Dr. Sylvester Lechner, Max Pause and Bertold Schwartz. The Chap Darrah basin, the western tributary at the head of the Ishmurgh valley, with Base Camp at 13,775 feet, was a favorable center of activities. On September 2 Pause and Zink climbed P 5230* (17,159 feet; between Wala Peaks 363 & 364; south of Kohe Larissa) via west face. Kohe Larissa* (20,200 feet; peak 355 on the Wala map) was climbed on September 4 by Pause and Schwartz up the northeast face by two short icefalls and a steep glacier. Zink, Irmler and Lechner repeated the climb the next day. Zink and Irmler continued on along the ridge over a 20,095-foot peak* a three-day ridge traverse over its northwest ridge to Shir Koh (20,971 feet; Wala peak 354). (The name has only just been discovered. It was climbed by Austrians from the Khandud valley in 1968 and by Japanese from the Chap Darrah in 1969.) Pause made an interesting solo ascent of Kohe Hevad (22,471 feet) on September 9, a climb which Zink and Irmler repeated the next day. They had two high camps. They had a relatively long approach from the north up the flat Nale Daruni Glacier, followed by a crevassed section and steep snow slopes toward the top. It was not difficult. From Camp II on the connecting ridge between Kohe Hevad and Shir Koh, Zink and Irmler headed for Kohe Dusti. Czechs under Sedivy climbed the northeast summit from the Ushmurgh valley in 1965. The Munich pair on September 11 first climbed the easy western summit and continued to the main summit* (21,012 feet) of Kohe Dusti with rock and ice climbing of UIAA III+ difficulty. (This peak was formerly called “Kohe Meena” or “Kohe Mina”.)

adolf Diemberger, Österreichischer Alpenklub

*First Ascent.

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.