American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Noghor Zom, Pegish II, Kotgaz Glacier Region, Eastern Hindu Kush

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1971

Noghor Zorn, Pegish II, Kotgaz Glacier Region, Eastern Hindu Kush. The Yokohama Sanryokai expedition was led by Miki Yanagishima and further composed of Nobuo Saito, Miss Tsuneko Kobayashi and Miss Midori Noji. After leaving Chitral on July 3, they passed through Uzhnu and placed Base Camp on the Kotgaz Glacier at 13,125 feet. Camp I at 14,300 feet (July 14) and Camp II (July 16) were put on the northwest ridge of Noghor Zom. After a bivouac 350 feet below the summit, on July 25 the two men reached the top (19,508 feet; first ascent by Austrians Gassner, Iglar, Peer on August 1, 1968). A camp was established at 15,700 feet on the rock ridge which extends from Pegish II (20,233 feet) on July 31. On August 1 all four made the second ascent of Pegish II. (First ascent by the same Austrians on July 25, 1968.)

ICHIRO Yoshizawa, A.A.C. and Japanese Alpine Club

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