Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri VI, Second Ascent

Publication Year: 1971.

Dhaulagiri VI, Second Ascent. Michihiko Ogata led a second Japanese expedition, this one from Fukuoka Alpine Club, to attempt Dhaulagiri IV (25,153). This post-monsoon expedition was also unsuccessful in reaching its main objective. They climbed from the Kaphe Khola. Camp IV was at 19,900 feet, Camp V at 20,850 feet and Camp VI at 22,650 feet. The ridge which runs north from Gurja Himal over Dhaulagiri VI joins the ridge between Churen Himal on the west and Dhaulagiri IV on “Junction Peak” (23,320 feet). Just south of “Junction Peak” lies an unnamed summit of 23,460 feet. On October 25 Katsuhiro Nakajima and Goro Nabeyama made the first ascent from the col between it and Dhaulagiri VI. On November 1 Nakajima and Makoto Koga made the second ascent of Dhaulagiri VI (24,002 feet). The proposed southwest ridge of Dhaulagiri IV was knife-edged and too difficult.

ICHIRO Yoshizawa, A.A.J. and American Alpine Club