American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Churen Himal South

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1971

Tukuche Peak. The Waseda University Alpine Club’s expedition was composed of Naoji Sakai, Kenji Shiratori, Dr. Terumi Yatsuhashi, Shoichi Murata, Isamu Homma, Daishiro Kyushin, Hirosuke Kikuchi, Shotaro Miyake, Takao Yonemoto, Eiho Otani, Mitsuru Kinoshita, Makoto Hirano, Akiro Nagatani, Yutaka Watanabe, Harushige Yabuta, Masahiro Ikeda and me as leader. Advanced Base Camp was at 16,900 feet and Camps I and II on the north ridge at 19,000 and 20,675 feet. On April 30 Yonemoto, Otani and Kikuchi left Camp II at 2:30 A.M. for the summit (22,687 feet), which they reached in twelve hours of difficult climbing. The fatal accident happened at 8:30 just above Camp II. They came to rest after falling 1000 feet. All were hurt and unconscious. Without regaining consciousness Kikuchi slipped again and fell to the Mayandi Glacier. The others were rescued early the next morning.

Seiji Yamamoto, Waseda University Alpine Club

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