South America, Chilean and Argentine Patagonia, Cerro Torre, Ascent by Southwest Face

Publication Year: 1971.

Cerro Tone, Ascent by Southwest Face. After the death of Toni Egger on the descent, Cesare Maestri returned to the base of 9908-foot Cerro Torre, stating that the pair had made the first ascent of this fantastic ice-sheathed needle on January 31, 1959. There have been serious doubts expressed by many climbers about whether the claimed ascent was ever completed. In the southern winter of 1970, Maestri returned to the peak with Carlo Claus, Ezio Alimonta, Pietro Vidi, Renato Valentini and Cesarino Fava. This time they again stirred great controversy by taking with them a 150-pound portable jack-hammer for placing bolts. The winter attempt was unsuccessful, but they did on June 18 get to within 650 feet of the summit. Maestri, Claus and Alimonta returned again in November, accompanied by Claudio Baldessari and Daniele Angeli. By November 30 they had bolted their way to 300 feet from the top. On December 1 they climbed a series of little ice towers to reach a point 130 feet below the summit. At 1:45 P.M. on December 3 Maestri, Claus and Alimonta set foot on the highest point, where they left their jack-hammer. They are said to have placed over 1000 bolts!