American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Chilean and Argentine Patagonia, Cerro Torre Attempt by Club Alpino Italiano, Belledo Section

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1971

Cerro Torre Attempt by Club Alpino Italiano, Belledo Section. In early January an Italian expedition led by Carlo Mauri moved into the Túnel valley en route to Cerro Torre. With him were Casimiro Ferrari, Lorenzo Acquistapace, Pierluigi Lanfranchi, Gianni Stefanon, Piero Ravá, Gianfelice Rocca, Roberto Chiappa and Giuseppe Cima. They attacked the unclimbed western side, attempted in 1958 by Mauri and Walter Bonatti. They established Camp III at the foot of Cerro Torre at 5600 feet on January 14. On January 20 Ferrari, Acquistapace and Mauri at 8200 feet reached the “Colle della Speranza” (Hope Col), the 1958 high point, the route having been fixed with 2000 feet of rope. The ridge from there rose in two steps. The top of the first step, which they called the Helmet, was finally surmounted after the most difficult climbing on ice and ice-covered rock. Camp V was established on its top on January 25. The next day Ferrari and Ravá continued a few rope-lengths higher, but deteriorating weather and climbing difficulties drove them back at about 9650 feet, still some 650 feet from the summit. Carlo Mauri has a fascinating account in Mountain of September, 1970.

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