American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordilleras Vilcabamba and Urubamba, Cordillera Urubamba

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1971

Cordillera Urubamba. The American Malcolm Moore and I visited the Abra Malaga (Malaga Pass) area. Leaving the Cuzco-Quillabamba bus at the top of the pass on April 25, we decided against an attempt in such stormy weather on Huacrahuilki (also known as Padre Eterno and with much less justification Verónica). On the 26th we walked over to the south glacial margin of Huacratanca (also called Sayhua Orqo), which we climbed by its south glacier and east ridge. My guess is that it is slightly over 5000 meters (16,404 feet). The peak is east of Helangoma and considerably lower. We then crossed the 14,800-foot pass southwards and came into the valley of Pokracancamayu to look at Ccapacsaya (also called Huayurioq; on this side at least, I found nobody using “Media Luna”, which is the name which appears in Fantin’s book). We climbed the peak by its west glacier and northwest ridge on April 29. Our reading of 16,600 feet of 5060 meters at the summit seems too low. We descended in a snowstorm and returned to Cuzco the same day. On May 9 Jonas Osauskas and I climbed the rock tip of c. 16,250 feet on the divide between the Quebradas Huamanchoque and Cancha Cancha, immediately southwest and adjacent to Sahuasiray.

John Ricker

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