American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordilleras Vilcabamba and Urubamba, Chuyunco and Salcantay, Cordillera Vilcabamba

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1971

Chuyunco and Salcantay, Cordillera Vilcambamba. On July 12, starting from Sisaypampa, Bernard Cabane, Bertrand Gaudefroy, Benoit Finet, Denis Bourgeois, Jean-Jacques Rochon and Francis Bourgogne of the Maison des Jeunes and de la Culture, Romans, climbed Chuyunco I (17,127 feet) by its southwest ridge on a second attempt after a heavy snowfall. They descended, threatened by avalanches, by the southeast ridge. This peak, which lies just east of Salcantay, is the southernmost of a chain which runs north and south, also called Ulluncuy. On July 17, from Yahuarmaqui Pass, Paul Picard and I attempted Acobamba Oeste (16,733 feet) climbing the southeast couloir under the summit. Once past the difficulties, we were swept down 500 feet by a powder-snow avalanche. It took one of us 35 minutes to uncover the other and it was only just possible to reanimate him. This peak is east of Salcantay and southeast of Chuyunco. On July 19 Bernard Cabane and Benoit Finet climbed Salcantay (20,574 feet). They left from Base Camp at Sisaypampa and climbed to a col at 16,400 feet on the northeast ridge. They then followed the Lionel Terray diagonal route across the north face, on which they established two camps.

Jacques Coffin, Club Alpin Français

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