American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Central Peru, Attempt on El Toro, Cordillera Huayhuash

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1971

Attempt on El Toro, Cordillera Huayhuash. An English expedition led by Joe Brown and made up of Alan Hunt, Dave Alcock, Mo Anthoine, George Homer, Will Barker, Denis Kemp and journalist Mike Corner made a valiant attempt on El Toro (20,082 feet) but failed to climb the last 100 feet. A high camp was established on a col 2000 feet below the summit. With extremely difficult ice climbing, they had to avoid work in the afternoon, when the sun loosened the surface too much and allowed ice- and rockfall. After a bivouac in a crevasse at 19,500 feet, Brown, Barker, Anthoine and Alcock tried for the summit. By 11 o’clock they were about three rope-lengths away and 100 feet below the summit, but dangerous cornices and unstable snow persuaded them to give up the attempt. Kemp and Hunt climbed TAM Norte (17,904 feet), a first ascent.

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