Huascarán and Huandoy. Our group of seven began climbing activities by the middle of May. A three-man party succeeded on May 26 in climbing the south peak of Huascarán. They were struck by the earthquake when they were descending after evacuating their high camp but were fortunately in a comparatively safe place. The four-man party was continuing to prepare the route on Huandoy. Two of this group had descended and helped the Czechs make a memorial to the Czech who had been killed in a fall. The earthquake struck as they were returning to their camp. Those of us on Huascarán were going to Huandoy and so if the earthquake had occurred one day later, more than half of us would have been killed, but half of the Czechs would have survived because they would have been heading for Huascarán. In June we could do no serious climbing. We descended to communicate with the outside world and then helped dig a canal to lower the level of the upper Llanganuco Lake, which was swelling from the avalanche. We helped search for the Czechs. In the beginning of July we climbed the south buttress of Huandoy Sur. (First ascent by L. and I. Ortenburger, Abrons, J. and H. Kendall, Frost, July 28, 1964. See A.A.J., 1965, 14:2, pp. 267-274.)

Kiichi Takahashi, Kyoto Alpine Club