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North America, Canada, Coast Range, Squamish Chief, Black Dike

Squamish Chief, Black Dike. Al Givler and I completed this climb in three weekends in February. We climbed on the first two weekends in the rain, fixing three ropes on the first five pitches, in a total of 18 hours of climbing. On the third weekend it dawned clear as we started the final push, which took a day and a half and a hammock bivouac at 650 feet. The climb consists of ten pitches and follows a very prominent black dike of basalt, which divides the Squamish Chief. The crux pitches were the 4th, 5th, 8th and 9th, all of which had A4 piton placement. NCCS VI, F8, A4 or UIAA VI-, A4. Technical equipment: 1 2", 3 1½", 4 1", 6 ¾" 8 babies, 20 horizontals, 8 knifeblades, 2 or 3 rurps, 2 cliff hangers, 5 climbing nuts, 40 tie-off loops.

Mead Hargis, Unaf'filiated