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North America, United States, Colorado, New Routes in Rocky Mountain National Park

New Routes in Rocky Mountain National Park. In July Charlie Logan and I climbed a new route on the north face of the Spearhead. The right side of the face is a triangular plate, laced with a spider’s web of cracks, and with a hooked top. Our route, The Barb, starts near its right side and above the main horizontal ledge diagonals up to the left to the far side of the plate. It ascends one lead to the right to a crack near its top and continues around the comer onto the northwest face and up any of the routes there to the summit. NCCS III, F8, A2; 10 pitches, 13 hours. In October George Hurley and I climbed The Eumenides on the Sundance Buttress. The west-central portion of this formation is pierced by a number of vertical dihedrals with slabs between them. Our route started some 250 feet left of the popular Guillotine route and ascended the largest of these dihedrals and the face to its left for six leads, until it went left around a corner into another dihedral, which we followed for two more leads to the top. NCCS III, F8; 9 hours. Other routes done this year include the Erb-Sokol-Jacober route on Sundance, NCCS III, Culp-Beal on Petit Grepon, NCCS III or IV, Orange-Julius on rock west of Bookmark, NCCS III, F9, A4, Covington’s route right of the North Chimney route and Forrest’s finish to the Yellow Wall, which was of three new pitches and the First solo ascent of the Diamond on Longs Peak. In July, 1967 Jock Glidden and I climbed the Indirettissima on Chasm View Wall of the east face of Longs Peak. Starting from the highest scramble ledge to the right of the Direttissima, we went up to a scoop ledge, chimneyed up behind an enormous flake, from its top went right into an aid dihedral that led to large ledges and traversed up these to the right behind a flake onto the ridge. NCCS II, F7, A2; 4 pitches, 5 hours. A week later Larry Dalke and Cliff Jenning repeated the route with a significant variation, which avoided the aid pitch by some F9 jamming around a fearsome overhanging flake to the left.

Walter Fricke, National Park Service