American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Range, Pronghorn, East Arête of North Summit

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1971

Pronghorn. East Arête of North Summit. Pronghorn has two spectacular buttresses. The southern leads directly to the main summit and is nearly vertical. The northern leads to the north summit and maintains a nearly constant angle of about 70°. It is bounded on each side by steep faces and thus forms a sharp arête. The already existing route on the east side of Pronghorn (Becky and Bjornstad) follows the gulleys and chimneys between these two buttresses. On July 29, Tony Qamar and I, feeling somewhat overawed by the southern buttress decided to attempt the more friendly northern buttress. We approached it from lake 11,050+ (two miles south of Middle Fork Lake) and started climbing slightly to the right of the crest in order to avoid difficult slabs and overhangs on the lowest 100 feet of the arête. Thereafter we climbed directly up the arête and attained the summit after a total of nine pitches, taking 5½ hours. The first several pitches are the most difficult. The final pitches are particularly exhilarating because in its higher portions the arête narrows to only several feet. We suggest this very enjoyable climb be called Antelope Arête. NCCS III, F8.

Charles Raymond

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