North America, United States, Wyoming - Tetons, Death Canyon

Publication Year: 1971.

Death Canyon. Three more difficult rock climbs have been made on the readily accessible cliffs on the north side of the canyon entrance. The first was made by Michael and Jane Yokell on July 20, 1969, on the south face of Sentinel Turret. A total of eight pitches, including two rated F8, were climbed up a crack system which apparently crossed the line of a previous ascent since a one-inch angle piton was found. The second route, Doomsday Dihedral, was climbed on July 11 by Dave and Jim Erickson. This dihedral in white rock begins about 400 feet up near the left edge of the south face of Sentinel Turret and was reached on the sixth pitch. The route started with a 150-foot chimney followed by face climbing to the right of the dihedral to two cracks diagonally left. The third lead (F7) went up the left crack to a ledge from which two more pitches (F9 and F6) led to a stance 30 feet to the right of the dihedral. The dihedral itself was climbed in two rotten F9 leads, exiting over a roof and up to a ledge. The final four pitches were on the southwest ridge to the summit. The route is rated as IV, F9, but cannot be recommended because of excessive danger from the rotten rock.