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North America, United States, Wyoming - Tetons, Bivouac Peak, Direct South Face

Bivouac Peak, Direct South Face. The third route on this face was established on July 24 by Yvon Chouinard and Juris Krisjansons. The route begins, after F3 and F4 scrambling up toward the obvious black water marks which form a prominent feature of the face, at a cairn below the steep and at times slightly overhanging face just left of these water marks. The first seven leads consist of superb and sustained F7 climbing on excellent high-angle rock with adequate protection and belay ledges. In this section the line of least resistance is followed by climbing a bit to the right or left to avoid the larger overhangs. A huge ledge, reached at the end of the seventh lead, was followed easily to the left to enter a chimney behind the right (east) edge of the central buttress in the face. The remaining upper eight pitches are on easier ground but also proved to be very enjoyable climbing, hence this route (IV, F7) is to be recommended. Descent was made via the large southeast couloir.