American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming - Tetons, Mount Moran, South Buttress Right, Variation

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1971

Mount Moran, South Buttress Right, variation. On July 13, 1969, Juris Krisjansons and Peter Habeler made a significant new variation of this massive buttress by climbing the rock between the Black Fin and the South Buttress Right route. Six leads in this section of broken rock went generally straight up, involving F6 and occasionally F7 pitches. The variation ends with a pendulum to the left (west) to join the normal South Buttress Right at the east end of the Great Traverse. This fine variation (F7, A1) is more direct than the normal route, but it has the defect of missing the Great Traverse pitch which is one of the main attractions of the normal route.

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.