North America, United States, Utah, The Lighthouse

Publication Year: 1971.

The Lighthouse. Located ten miles east of Moab, the Lighthouse is a prominent sandstone spire rising above the south rim of the Colorado River canyon. On June 1 Harvey Carter, Tom Merrill, and I reached the overhanging summit by an east-face route that I had started the previous fall with Ian Wade. The route starts on the southeast corner and follows an obvious crack system for two leads, one free, and one aid, to the large ledge on the east face. A strenuous chimney and a delicate ridge pitch lead to a second ledge below the summit, a large, ball-shaped block of sandstone perched on a narrow base. The summit was surmounted by casting a rope over the top and jümaring up. The climb required two bolts. NCCS III, F8, A3.

Gary Ziegler