American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Oregon, Mount Jefferson, East Face Direct, Oregon Cascades

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1971

Mount Jefferson, East Face Direct, Oregon Cascades. An ascent of the east face direct via the Warm Springs Couloir was first made by Price Zimmermann and me on May 31, 1969. Seven hours after abandoning our pick-up in a snow bank, we arrived at the base of the couloir, which rises 2000 feet from the floor of the White Water Glacier forming a direct line to the summit. At this time of the year, the couloir is completely filled with snow and ice, and the last three pitches on the upper section were fifth class on 50 slopes of ice. The summit was reached early that evening and our descent via the west face was hampered by severe ice conditions, requiring more than 27 hours to complete the climb.

Theodore Nicolai

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