North America, United States, Washington - Cascade Mountains, Picket Range, Carpetbaggers Traverse

Publication Year: 1971.

Picket Range, Carpetbaggers Traverse. During July, Joan and Carla Firey, Dave Knudson and 1 made an eleven-day high circuit of the Goodell Creek Drainage in the Pickets. We entered the group from the south following Ed Cooper’s approach to a campsite below Pinnacle Peak (See Cooper, A.A.J., 1962 for route and for peak names.) We made a new crossing of the Southern Pickets by the Himmelgeister-Otto Horn Col and found a pleasant new route to Picket Pass along the McMillan-Goodell Creek Divide north of Frenzel Spitz. From Picket Pass to the Picket-Goodell Creek Divide and south to Jasper Pass, we roughly followed Tabor and Crowder’s Routes and Rocks in the Mt. Challenger Quadrangle. Our exit was by a traverse of the glacier on the east side of Despair at about 6000 feet and then out via Triumph Pass and Thornton Lakes. A first ascent was made on Ghost, a peak about 8000-feet-high between Crooked Thumb and Phantom. The route was from the notch south of the peak which was gained from the west. We stayed on the south and west sides of the mountain following obvious weaknesses. A new route was made on Pinnacle Peak by its north ridge. Both of these climbs involved easy to moderate fifth-class pitches. The entire party completed each of these as well as other climbs. This fair-weather backpack required roping down, cramponing and other technical maneuvers.

Peter Renz