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North America, United States, Washington - Cascade Mountains, Vesper Peak, North Face

Vesper Peak, North Face. Two new routes on this face were climbed during 1970. Beginning high on the glacier, Mark Weigelt, Julie Brugger, John Bonneville, and Earl Hamilton went up a broken gully to a ledge belay. Four pitches were climbed to the dihedral formed by the intersection of the 60º and 45º slabs. The dihedral was followed to the summit (F9). NCCS II, F9. The second climb was done by Don Williamson and Mac Harnois. On September 27 they left their camp at Copper Lake and cramponed up the small but heavily crevassed glacier to the base of the 1200-foot rock face. They climbed a steep buttress in three leads to the major ledge system bisecting the face. The route continued directly above for six more leads, mostly on 45° slabs, to the ridge crest where a short scramble eastward brought them to the summit. On the last two of these leads they were about 50 feet west of and parallel to the dihedral. These vast, clean, granite slabs are well protected, in contrast to the 60° slab (See A.A.J., 1970, 17:1, p. 118). NCCS II, F6.