Mount Stuart, North Buttress Variation. Completed by Jay Ossiander and me in July 1970. Starting from the very lowest point on the north buttress, 100 feet of third class leads to a broken ledge crossing the bottom of the buttress. We then started to the left of some trees, climbing to a prominent right-leaning six-inch crack. Six fifth-class leads (two were F9) followed and it went then third class to the bivouac point on the regular north ridge route.

Mead Hargis, unaffiliated