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North America, United States, Alaska, McCall Glacier, Romanzof Mountains

McCall Glacier, Romanzof Mountains. In the spring of 1969 personnel from the Geophysical Institute of the University of Alaska reoccupied McCall Glacier to continue the glacial and meteorological research begun in 1957-58 during IGY by the Arctic Institute of North America. During the summer of 1970 members of the rotating teams staffing McCall found time from their daily research duties to visit most of the summits in the immediate area, apparently untrod for more than a decade. Between May 29 and June 3 C. Fahl, A. Snyder and I took advantage of our circuitous line of ablation stakes to make ascents of “Ahab” (8760 feet) by a south gully, “Ishmael” (8615 feet) via the hanging glacier “Moby Dick” and southwest exposure, and “Suki” (8250 feet) from the upper cirque. On June 21 D. Trabant, with a companion halfway, climbed “Mount McCall” (8270 feet) by its east face. Some of these shorter climbs were repeated during the summer, but not until August 14 was the summit of Mount Hubley (8915 feet) reached, highest of the six sentinel peaks flanking the glacier. During a marathon 15-hour day, T. Wheeler and Fahl made the top, climbing a variant of its west ridge from “Bravo Pass”.

Robert Spurr