North America, United States, Alaska, Peak 9300 ("Double Exposure"), Eastern Alaska Range

Publication Year: 1971.

Peak 9300 (“Double Exposure”), Eastern Alaska Range. One-and-a-half day’s travel brought Tom Kensler and me to the foot of the O’Brien Icefall, which separates the Canwell Glacier from the Old Snowy branch of the Gerstle Glacier in the Delta Mountains. July’s lack of snow bridges made for much extraneous meandering during our approach to the pass. For two days it rained and/or snowed, but on the 22nd it cleared enough to climb. From camp between Old Snowy and Peak 9300 on the Old Snowy Glacier, it was a few miles of easy walking to a col at 8000 feet on the ridge that formed our objective. Rotten gendarmes along the ridge forced us onto the snow, which was at the balling stage. The exciting thing of this ridge was that it plunged 4500 feet on the west and a more comforting 2000 feet on the east. The ridge continued for a mile, sometimes flat, sometimes steep, but always with an unhealthy cornice. The summit was in clouds and offered not a single picnic spot. It was seven P.M. with lots of Alaskan summer sun. On the way down I took pictures and thought the name “Double Exposure” described this mountain and the two ridges.

Daniel Osborne, Alaska Alpine Club