American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Kohe-Farzand (P 6196) and (P 6096)

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1970

Kohe-Farzand (P 6196) and (P 6096). The Gifu University expedition was in the Pegish Darrah in the Wakhan. It was composed of Yoshio Hirabayashi, leader, Hiroshi Fujii, Nobutaka Suzuki, Toshiyasu Umehara, Taiten Kotoo, Osamu Tokunaga and the Afghan Najibra Mohammad. They left Kabul on July 11 and finally arrived at Base Camp at 13,000 feet at the end of the moraine of the Pegish valley on July 20. Camp I was placed at 14,500 feet on July 22 below a crevassed area and Camp II at 16,400 feet on July 27. From there the route went at an average of 60° up the extreme right of the icefall that drops from P 6196; they fixed 3500 feetof rope. On August 7 they established Camp III on the col at 19,000 feet. On the 8th Tokunaga and Umehara climbed P 9196 (20,330 feet; Wala 308). (First ascent by Poles in 1968 from the Yamit valley.) The next day also from Camp III Kotoo and Suzuki made the first ascent of P 6096 (20,000; Wala 306). They reached both the rock and ice summits, which are almost the same height.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club and A.A.C.

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